And youmight not be able to use the enclosure again for a w… BUY NOW Rule #4. :)From memory Peter ( Schluter's Technical Director? ) Also, am I supposed to thinset and tape the space between the cement board and lip of the tub? I’ve never tiled over existing tile. I guess my concern is sealing up the kerdi membrane properly around the valve opening through the substrate. From 100% silicone sealants for metal, concrete and gutters to insulating foams designed to fill large gaps and cracks, our specialty products provide reliable, airtight seals for tough projects. The alcohol evaporates quickly and that’s one advantage of using denatured alcohol to spray the silicone vs something like soapy water or Windex, which both work for this also. Nvm that’s a yes… this is an awesome thread. Nice looking job though Steve. There is a little foam thing inside my escutcheons, but I have little faith in it. All the cool kids are doin’ it. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us. You can click on any of these photos to view a full-size version. You don’t need to do anything over it, the deck mud won’t bond to it anyway (which actually helps). and for bonding to glass and plastic. If you are using the traditional method and have your waterproof barrier behind your substrate (like in these pictures) you’ll need to silicone the perimeter of the barrier to the back of your backerboard. I have no spare tile to match what is in place, and it is quite solidly bonded as far as I can tell. We are renovating our 150 year old house, and in the upstairs bathroom, I found a stupid dead space that, if we rearranged some things, would allow us to have a tub in there. They are polymeric materials that exhibit the viscoelastic behaviour, which we generally call as elasticity. Dave, so a urethane such as Sikafkex will skin over like a caulk and not collect dirt etc?????? —doesn’t bond to thinset (wet or dry), right? For the purposes of most shower applications silicone is silicone. Use included rubber seal…how to attach to the kerdi? I have been reading through your manuals, and they are helping me feel more confident about tiling. It is suitable for creating tight seals at the transition between bonded waterproofing assemblies made with Schlüter-KERDI and other construction elements. What do you think about Kirdifix? Thanks for your time. I have a drain clean out from the kitchen sink on the main floor that’s at the base of my basement shower. Or am I just supposed to wait to do any waterproofing for those holes until I apply the tiles? 2. when you sheetrock or cement board a tub surround, do you extend the sheetrock or cement board over the tub lip and onto the top ledge or do you just end your sheetrock or cement board right above the tub lip and then let the tile extend onto the tub ledge? From the #1 Silicone Brand, Tub and Tile Silicone 1 sealant is a 100% silicone and 100% waterproof sealant ideal for areas susceptible to moisture such as Click Above to have professional TileTips sent directly to your inbox. The opening is 5″×8″, and at the base of the shower wall. Regarding a shower with Hardi substrate and Kerdi waterproofing—– My shower project is coming along (slowly but surely), but I have a question regarding one of my walls. They, and others are relying on a tested, proven 2" overlap seam. The only big downside is that it's not paintable. At all wall junctions, apply KERDI-BAND or KERDI-FLEX as described in steps 1-3, ensuring a minimum of 2" overlap on to … Favored the Bostic. The pipe must be dry before you apply the silicone; this allows the silicone to set up properly. Been a while. Unlike some adhesives, silicone sealants must cure. It probably had that 5% or worse of D4. Moen states in their instructions to keep the plaster ground in place during installation of the trim and that it should sit flush with the finished tile. My question is what happens next? Thanks John, everyone.....In a shower, primary concern to me is sealing around the shower valve, in case any water gets past the escutcheon. And I’ve done a lot of moens. I’ll have to get you a six pack for this probably…two beers isn’t enough. Our patented Polymer Bonding Process (Patent No: 10,577,521) The Ultimate Guide on How To Bond/'Glue' All Silicone Types and Products Silicone is the go to polymer when cushioning and/or sealing is the objective. Now all you need to do is shoot a large bead of silicone all the way around the perimeter of the hole. When water gets behind your tile (and water WILL get behind your tile!) At the time they didn't have KerdiFix out. I am still a little confused about how to waterproof around the holes. This ensures the fleece will be 100% covered in thin-set. Do I absolutely need to use kerdi fix around the mixing valve and tub flange or can I use 100% silicone? After using the Kerdi Fix from Schluter that is my favorite adhesive type silicone for wet applications and where white is OK (since I think that is the only color it comes in). Hi Roger, Whether you have utilized a topical waterproofing like Hydroban or Redgard (liquid) or Kerdi (sheet), or you’re using the traditional method with a membrane behind your substrate, the answer is silicone. Yes, you can. Just do the dam, it can be larger than the cover. Paint the redgard right up to the holes. Get off my ass about it. Now once you get your hole cut out in your tile flip it over so you’re staring at the back of it. The temperature needs to be between 40°F and 100°F, and there needs to be between 5% and 95% humidity for silicone … (Picture 4). This silicone works great,used to fix a hole in metal roof around pipe,just layered it to fix a 1.25 inch gap .I would buy again,and will here soon Read more Curing silicone isn’t necessarily difficult, but it does require patience. So that brings my next question: do I need to do more than simply pack the new (and hopefully correctly sloped) mud deck onto the existing tile? I imagine water running down the front of my tile and getting behind my escutcheons then making its way through the 2 inch hole through my Kerdi and backer board and into the inside of my stud wall. I can't imagine that it would be toolable and it would likely just be a … OK, maybe you need more info. What this does is create a dam of silicone around the perimeter of your cutout. We are using tile for walls and mosaic for shower floor and I want to know if any additional waterproofing materials other than backer board need to be applied before or after the backer board and was told not to put any holes in fiberglass coating so is there is need to do that that at all for any reason? It will run around anything in the path downward. Both rubber and silicone are elastomers. In a nutshell, caulk is used in a tub or shower enclosure to keep water from creeping up,under or around the tiles at joints between tile and the tub or shower pan,or on joints where walls meet. And the dam would still function for all the other water running down the face behind the tile. :D. Getting raggdy from the condensate of the ice cubes when we fill it with bottle water and ice, but hate to throw it out. 2) I could abate some of this by siliconing the OD of the escutcheon instead of relying on its (smaller OD) rubber seal. With that much work at that point it would actually likely be easier to replace the floor. 4. Five years later, we managed to finally get to tub stage. The problem with holes in a waterproof shower is that they make it not so waterproof. Unlike in other ela… However, when it was the plumber’s turn, we realized that this meant that the mixing valve for the tub/shower was too deep, and it now sits proud of the shower wall. Do I need to seal the cut face of the Hardi with a smear of silicone also? Dave has been watering it ever since. As a result, silicone caulk can handle movements in the joints, the areas where the walls meet. They wish I would. I have one question though which I’m unclear about. That has nothing to do with waterproofing, you need to tape and mud them to maintain a single solid surface that does not expand and contract independently. I used it in a few spots on my shower floor with kerdi membrane, and flood tested it for 4 days straight with no leaks. I’m building a tile shower with Kerdi membrane, and the Schulter shower base kit (I read your manual on waterproofing with Kerdi – it’s excellent!). Water is for sissies. We can distinguish silicone from rubbers by the atomic structure. Do I not worry about caulking that space until after all the thinsetting, taping and redguarding? The valve manufacturer supplied the typical plastic placeholder/spacer that temporarily attaches to the valve and protrudes through the substrate. Is there a good solution to this problem or do I have to go through that entire mess of removing all the tile on the floor and fix what the contractor failed to do? (That’s the word on the street…), Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery! Crafters and artists may find that this clear silicone sealant is a great choice for sculpting and picture frame assembly. So the thought is to simply add a second drain where the first one SHOULD have been in the first place. We are putting tile over a tub. Either the technique above or you can use schluter valve seals on them (just google it). Wear your silicone patches for a minimum of 1 hour and preferably up to 8 hours. You may have answered this elsewhere, but I was reading your traditional shower waterproofing guide and had a quick question. (Picture 2). What should I do? The simple truth is that some projects just don't need extremely strong adhesives, and diluting the silicone is a good way to make your sealant cheaper for these kinds of projects. But yes, it will work for your situation as well. Thinset bonds to urethane not silicone. They are meant to discard. It will not be technically waterproof until you install the silicone and tile. :eek: I can assure you I don't keep ice in it unless I have to :wave:, but it is always half full of water. ... Used it to cover the Schluter screws on the Kerdi board with Kerdi band per instructions. Schluter Kerdi fix was recommended earlier in the thread. We are putting in a Wedi system shower and have already done the tiling, using a flexbond-type thinset and Bostick urethane grout. I’ve used mapei’s aquadefense. I did the caulking on my house 15 years ago including the cedar siding joints, still not a tear in it. 8.1 Schlüter®-KERDI W A T E R P R O O F M E M B R A N E F O R S U B S T R A T E P R O T E C T I O N Application and Function Schlüter®-KERDI is a crack bridging water- proof membrane made of soft polyethylene, I just tiled a floor this weekend based your great tips. You can silicone between the tile and backer around the hole, but there’s no need to tear tile out to do it. 100% WEATHERPROOF: This 100% silicone formula offers protection from water damage, providing a reliable seal in areas prone to weather and water exposure 7-YEAR MOLD-FREE PRODUCT PROTECTION: Protects against stain-causing mold and mildew growth Do you trim it and where does the edge go relative to the flooring – presumably not below (in this case the drywall was already removed for the legs, so we put backerboard there.). And an apple. One of the problems with waterproofing a shower is the fact that you NEED to have holes in it. IMHO the Kerdi fix at every seam IS overkill. The next step is to embed KERDI-BAND into the KERDI-Fix to make the tub to KERDI-BOARD transition 100% waterproof. I don’t know why they would want you to leave it in there unless it’s part of the seal for their trim. . They just flat out don't leak. Plumber advised me to have my tile guy build it up with mud. Well, in an effort to save me from losing more space in my already tiny “elf closet”, our carpenter framed our tub wall that holds our plumbing with a 2×4, instead of a 2×6, which was great, because we could leave the stupid little closet alone. For best results, sleep with your silicone pad adhered to your skin. Never tried that one, used Vulcum, Bostic, Dow, Precora, and Sonoborne. Red Devil 8164012 100% Silicone Sealant Architectural Grade, Bronze, 9.8 oz, Case of 12 By Red Devil product price $47.97 & FREE Shipping. The repair can be time-consuming and expensive. In addition, silicones have more special properties than normal rubbers. Stuff seals well. Certified by NSF to NSF / ANSI Standard #51.Safe for incidental food contact. They are all the same. Do those faucet and shower head holes get thinset or tape? Secondly, thanks for all of the information. I stick the Kerdi to the tub lip with modified thin set -- Versa Bond. Hey Roger, just bought your kerdi bundle and read the kerdi book top to bottom. You can, but you still need to tape and mud it. But, perhaps when everything is put together, that isn’t really a concern? 1) Is the thinset applied up to the opening in the substrate and then scraped away (like a 3/4″ gap)? Once you get your escutcheon (the metal cover plate) on there no water will enter through the front of the tile, then any water behind your tile will run around the dam. The kerdi mixing valve seal is 4-1/2″ and the Hansgrohe ibox requires a 5″ hole. It will just back up and eventually (over the years) saturate the substrate! should i take it back, and buy 100% silicone? « Reply #1 on: May 29, 2018, 12:33:28 pm » You can never tell, but the absence of a earth connection & wrist strap connection would indicate that the mat has not been properly designed to create an ESD workstation. 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